What To Eat in Mexico City

What To Eat in Mexico City

 

From the 5 peso taco stands to the tasting menu at Pujol (Anthony Bourdain covered this restaurant in Mexico City), from esquites at 1am to frijoles at 5am, the food in Mexico City is to die for.

Eating like a king for a few dollars a day is possible in CDMX, especially if you are adventurous!

Breakfast in Mexico City

Besides the tamales stands popping up on street corners, there are some truly worthwhile restaurants and cafes to experience in Mexico City. It is worth planning ahead, especially for Fonda Margarita, to ensure you arrive early enough and on the best days.

 

Fonda Margarita

Another Anthony Bourdain in Mexico City location. The first time I visited this restaurant, I got up as early as I could and travelled across town on the metro. I walked the few blocks to this non-descript location, passing by ladies selling lotto tickets and flowers. On more recent trips, I took an Uber which was much more efficient.

The atmosphere is simple yet amazing. Two older gentlemen sat next to the door playing music and singing, I made sure to tip them as I left. On my first visit, I ordered coffee, huevos rancheros with beans (refritos), and churros afterwards. Many items are daily specials, as listed on the wall above the pots of food.

The huevos rancheros were not what I expected but were delicious. The beans took a while but were definitely my favourite part of the meal. And the churros were delicious. The staff were so happy and friendly, overall the language barrier was not an issue.

The dishes bubbling away at the pass smelled amazing and I took my time smelling them before I left.

Each visit subsequently, I have tried various dishes. The milanesas has eluded me so far, but one day!

I can’t stress this enough - the frijoles refritos (with or without huevos) are to die for. I didn’t expect it, but I am glad to have experienced it!

The menu at Fonda Margarita (updated 2022)

 

Molino El Pujol

Molino El Pujol opened in 2018, initially to produce traditional tortillas for Enrique Olvera’s restaurants (such as Pujol). Purchasing surplus corn from farmers, and creating traditional tortillas via nixtamalization (a process allowing access to vitamins during digestion, unlike other tortillas), the small cafe started selling tortillas and then food. The menu is simple, but well worth the time.

Having experienced huitlacoche at Pujol, I opted for a huitlacoche tamale alone with enfrijoladas and coffee. The cost for this experience is so cheap when you factor in how special the food is. Recipes for items on the menus can also be found in Enrique Olvera’s book “Tu Casa Mi Casa”, which I adore.

The menu at Molino El Pujol

 
 

Street Food in Mexico City

Las Gorditas de Sevilla

By far my favourite street food in Mexico City.  I simply can’t suggest this more.  Gorditas Al Pastor with plenty of salsa are one of my favourite memories of Mexico.  I would walk past here almost daily, on the way to Chapultepec park, and I think I stopped every day at least once. Mostly, I bought them as takeaway to eat in the park (they were so fresh off the grill that they were hot all the way there) but I did sit down to have dinner as well.

The lovely lady running the stall and making the gorditas was always very friendly. They are made to order and you can add your choice of salsa and extras. At 12 pesos each, they are great value and so satisfying.  Go in and sit down if the weather isn't great, try and few kinds. but if the weather is perfect, take a couple and walk the few blocks to the park.

El Huequito Tacos

Tacos Al Pastor (“Shepherd Style”) are a Mexico City staple.  Another location visited by Anthony Bourdain. A true case of fusion, Christian Lebanese immigrants brought their shawarma rotisserie method and used it to cook pork for tacos (often with pineapple on top).  This small hole in the wall has multiple restaurant locations, but this is the original. 

http://www.bbc.com/travel/story/20151021-a-taco-with-middle-eastern-roots

You eat standing in the street, resting on a stainless steel bench.  The tacos are served on a plastic plate with lime, and you can continue to eat and order more until you are content, then you pay. While Al Pastor is available everywhere, this is the most famous.

Tacos Al Pastor at Tacos el Huequito

 

Restaurants in Mexico City

Pujol

Having witnessed the restaurant being featured on Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations" and "Chef's Table" I attempted to book a reservation once my first trip to Mexico City was booked. After some issues with their website, I emailed and the restaurant was happy to help. I even have some annoyingly painful severe allergic reactions (anaphylaxis to nuts etc.) that they were happy to help with (something I felt guilt over, visiting one of the top restaurants in the world).

The day came and I enjoyed lunch the day before my birthday at this amazing restaurant. I had the street snacks (minus the macadamia nuts), the dry beef tartar, the suckling lamb taco, the rabbit, and as the mole madre contained nuts I had a substitution of the amarillito tamal, finishing with the "happy ending".

I can't overstate how enjoyable this was. The service was amazing, the staff were cordial and explained everything with detail and passion. Each dish was unique and there were simply no low points.

The street snacks were each flavourful and simply delightful. The baby corn with chicatana ants to the chicharrons. The dry beef tartar with tangy lime came with instructions to break the hard taco and eat a little of everything with each mouthful. The suckling lamb taco came with one of the most intense salsa. The rabbit was paired with a spiced sauce. Amarillito tamal was light wit earthy fava beans. And finally the "happy ending"...... From the avocado to the heart of the agave to the churro. I didn't want it to end.

Upon leaving I was offered a salty chocolate to end out the perfect lunch meal. While I spent my trip almost exclusively eating street food, I couldn't recommend this more. My advice is to savour every moment.

I was able to return for another unique dining experience a couple of years later. The menu changes regularly, so it was a completely different experience (with a few favourites). I can’t wait to return again.

Desserts and Sweets in Mexico City

El Moro Churreria

(see original location comments below)

Originally from Spain, the founder noticed a lack of churros in Mexico City and started a business from a cart in the Zocalo in 1933. After successful sales, the owner was able to purchase the property where the 24 hour business still stands, in 1935. The churros are the best that you will ever have, the staff dressed in white uniforms straight from the 1930s, the varieties of leche and dark chocolate sauce to dip churros will blow your mind. Purchase churros with leche, or ice cream sandwiches, or just churros and dark chocolate dipping sauce. I had Chocolate "Espanol" and "Mexicano" along with churros with sugar and cinnamon.

This churreria was busy almost every time I walked past, except for late afternoon. Even at the most busy times, the service was fast and efficient. When a batch came out a little overdone I was asked if they were ok, and then I was given extras. I tended to walk and eat them near the angel of independence. The chocolate bars they sell are not cheap, but are very worth it.